The Temples of Asakusa

Centre > Travel diaries > Japan 2000 > p4: The Temples of Asakusa

Wednesday August 30

Anne had to work in Tachikawa, so I was on my own for the day. She recommended I should try and go to Asakusa. Man o man... If I could have a single day in Tokyo, I would spend it all in Asakusa. What tickles me is, Anne called it a "shrine". A shrine??

Asakusa is the temple town around the Kinryûzan Sensôji Temple, better known as Asakusa Kannon. This temple complex is what got my heart. On exiting the subway I wondered if I'd manage to find it, but my concerns were put to rest immediately: the gorgeous Kaminarimon gate was visible all the way down the street. Entering under the large lantern, between F?jin the God of Wind and Raijin the God of Thunder, one steps right into an elongated marketplace that has been there since the early Edo period (1600-ish). I had the time of my life in Nakamise-dori (its name), where every kind of traditional artefact is sold. Kimonos, lucky charms, umbrellas, fans, foods, dolls, I filled my eyes and shopping bags. The beauty of it is that these objects are not made for tourists. The latter are rare. The Japanese buy and use them themselves.

Nakamise-dori seen beyond the Kaminarimon gate.

At the end of the shopping district the street opens into a wide court framed by stately structures and small statues playing hide-and-seek throughout the compound. The place was crowded with visitors who came as much to enjoy their day as to pray in one of the many shrines. The extraordinary red shone above everything else.

I'm pretty sure I had my mouth open as I walked up to the Asakusa Kannon straight ahead. Legend says that two fishermen discovered an image of Kannon (Kwan-Yin, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy) in the Sumida River in 628. A hall, then a temple, were built to worship the image. Kannon is now the oldest established temple in Tokyo, and from early on people were asked not to kill animals or fish in its vicinity to respect the Goddess. The bell used to announce the time of day, and a haiku can be read:

Sounding through clouds of flower
-- Is it the bell in Ueno or Asakusa?

The most spectacular construction in the compound is the five-story pagoda, originally erected in 942. Both it and the original Kannon were actually lost to fire during World War 2, and rebuilt afterwards. The precinct also includes such precious concepts as shrines to honor used pins and needles, fans used in dance, hand-copied sutras, and Soeda Chûdo's writing brush. I was charmed by the many holy statues wearing aprons or hats that populated the bushes of the precinct.

The Asakusa pagoda.

Kannon or Kwan-yin in a motherly aspect.

I was also delighted to watch the numerous devotional practices of the Japanese, described more in detail in this article. I emulated those who consulted an oracle, but I didn't tie it to the board the way they did I wanted to keep it. It was mostly in Kanji, but there was a brief English translation:

"It is almost impossible to cross a river too wide, waves are hard all over the river, you can't get to the other shore without a boat. But if you get a chance to cross the river when waves calm down, you can get a powerful means to pick up a giant fish."

Above: The oracle drawers and the boards where they are tied.

Right: My oracle.

Inside Asakusa Kannon there is a small stand where a monk sells devotional images and objects. In the Japanese tradition of playfulness, there was a stamp for visitors. The monk laughed when I didn't hit it hard enough the first time.

Such fountains are found all over Japan, and their scale varies from
the tiny spring with a single spoon-cup to the large basins such as Asakusa's.

Left: A brazier in front of one of the Asakusa structures.

Outside, a little girl came up to me and said in a careful English: "Good morning, what is your name?" Apparently her mother had sent her, and she arrived herself immediately with an adorable little boy. She said something to the girl and she asked again: "Can we take a picture with you?". I don't know why she wanted a picture of her kids with me (maybe it was the hair), but I gladly complied.

Right: Daily life and devotional life as one!

Flip to Page 5: Ueno.

All pictures and sketches are my own and not to be used in any way.