Chawki Daou doesn't look like an archaeologist, or a jewelry designer -- probably because he is both. This unusual combination is what gave birth to his current exhibit, possibly the first of its kind: Bijoux d'Antan, "jewels of the past".
The artist, a young man whose poise hides a hyperactive temperament, guides us himself through the small but rich collection and explains what it consists of. "These are pieces of jewelry made of ancient objects that have been reworked with contemporary gold". The pieces in question range from the rough colored glass-paste of the earliest Antiquity to Russian religious icons of the 18th century. Some of these objects were already used as jewelry: ancient beads of carnelian and agate, glazed terracotta, Islamic rings, pendants, all of which have been re-assembled into fresh new ornaments that sometimes collapse periods together. Others were never even meant to be decorative, and their recasting is ingenious, surprising and tasteful. Roman, Byzantine and Islamic coins have become medallions or rings. Two Phoenician arrowheads have been turned into a very fine pair of earrings. A Roman belt-buckle now embellished with golden flowers has started a new life as a brooch, and a gazelle-headed spoon end makes a lovely pendant, along with an ancient lock recycled as a Tanit amulet.
It is often hard to tell the antique part from the modern additions, but it would be even harder to figure out without help that these pieces are indeed made of anachronical parts. Daou is self-taught in jewelry-making, but it is archaeology he studied until 91, and that makes the whole difference when it comes to designing his jewelry: "I have to work the gold in the spirit of the artifact I start with. The artifact dictates the design, and it is its presence that makes the beauty of the final piece." The harmony of the results, the fact that they don't jump to the eyes but glow with the unobtrusive beauty of true elegance, testify to this educated attention to detail. The subtlety of the work is not lost on visitors: "They appreciate the value of these old stones", Daou shares. "As a matter of fact they're very surprised to find how affordable my work is! They imagine that ancient artifacts should be ranging in the thousands of dollars."
All the ancient objects that grew into modern pieces of jewelry come from Daou's private collection. "I have been buying artifacts since right after my studies, and since 2002 over the Internet -- the US are full of galleries that sell these." There was no sudden epiphany for him to decide to remodel them. He had opened his own jewelry workshop in 1992 and the rest fell into place gradually, as a logical intersection of his two passions. His workshop is located with his own antiques shop, Galerie Museo, in Jounieh. Even though this is his first solo exhibit, he has been participating in jewelry and design fairs since 2002.
Useful, modern, and imbued with a spirit of history -- these are the three declared characteristics of Daou's reborn jewels. "When you work with ancient objects, you don't choose. It is luck that defines what you find, and you then have to go from there." Based on the results, clearly an exciting process.
Bijoux d'Antan is exhibited at Galerie Zamaan, Sadate Str, from 11 am to 6 pm, until July 19th. Tel: 01 745571.
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Article by Joumana Medlej |